The Ketchup and the Idli: On a pizza in Ludwigsburg, a plate at T2, and the glue that holds a people together
Most important cultural glue is food. Then comes language. Music, arts, dress, all that comes later. I say this as a Horanadu Kannadiga who was born and brought up in the very heart of Malabar, in Kerala, and who has travelled a bit inside India and around the world. Nothing I saw on the road changed this view. Food is where a culture is practised every single day, three times a day, without anyone calling it culture. In Zen the cook of the monastery, the tenzo, is held as one of the most important persons in the whole place.
My first foreign trip was in 1996, for work, to the then newly unified Germany. Our base was a small town called Ludwigsburg near Stuttgart. Our hosts, who were also our clients, took us around Germany and Austria to introduce us to their ways. In those days there were not many Indian IT workers in Germany, not like in the USA or the UK. We were curiosities, I guess, and well looked after.
Two places I still remember. One was a Besenwirtschaft, the broomstick bar, where they serve wine made the traditional way and open only in season. A broom hung outside tells you it is open. The other was a small pizzeria run by an old Italian couple from Naples. The husband and wife were chef, server and owner, all in one.
When the pizza came, I asked for some tomato ketchup.
They did not understand. Our client from Weyerhauser translated it into German for them. And then the old man went into a rage. Something like.. nobody eats pizza with tomato ketchup. It is already made with real tomato puree. You Americans will kill the pizza. I was not even American, but that was beside the point. I sat there with my face going red, and a plate of pizza I was now afraid to touch.
I thought he was rude then. I do not think so now. A man had spent his whole life getting one thing right, and a stranger from the other side of the world wanted to cover it with a bottle of red sugar. He was not defending pizza. He was defending Naples, his mother's kitchen, everything he came from. On a plate.
Now to the other plate.
This was at T2, the Kempegowda airport in Bengaluru, a few days back. On our way to Dehradun. It is a really fancy airport. Maybe among the best designed in the world. Gardens inside the terminal, bamboo, light coming through everywhere. I have no complaint about the building.
We sat down at the Tiffin Centre and ordered what any Bengaluru person would order. One plate of idli, 3 nos. One plate of vada, again 3 nos. The bill came. Idli ₹469. Vada ₹509. With the GST, ₹1026.90. We added seventy on top by hand, since the lady who served did her job well, and made it ₹1096.
I am not going to talk about the price. An airport is an airport. I have paid worse.
When we were small, my parents moved to a small village named Thenkara. Though it was just 5 km away from the small town of Mannarkkad.. Modern times was at least 20-25 years ago. Even electricity came to our village a few years after we moved there. We had a traditional stone grinder to make idli and dosa batter. And my mother would tell us, me, my brother Sasi and sister Sandhya, it is our job to grind the batter, or she will make something else for our breakfast. That was one of the chores we had to do at home.. She would keep the rice and urad dal soaked in water.. And every 3-4 days after school hours we used to grind. Our friends out there used to urge us to come and join our evening time play.. and we were kind of torn between the need to play vs a good breakfast. Often breakfast won. No idea where the need to play is there in Maslow's hierarchy.
Vada may be a recent addition to it.. mostly to satiate the palates who are used to fried taste.. and then sambar.. it has a more colourful history.. created by a Maratha cook in Madurai for a king.. To me it remains a royal dish.. in fact my first blog was named sundaysambar.blogspot.com.. and what to say about chutneys.. South India has a million varieties of it.. It makes a neutral tasting Idli to any taste one palate craves..
But it is not just this.. the way it is served.. Idli and vadas are always served in combination.. if you walk into one of the darshinis in Blr, the question you hear is dip or separate.. what it means is whether you want your idlis and vadas in a swimming pool of sambar or you want it in a separate cup..
And much later, I landed up in Chennai after my graduation for a job. And I ended up staying quite close to Ratna Cafe at Triplicane. Which was the cafe famous for their idli and sambar. Those were the pre Murugan Idli days.. So a good idli and accompaniment is a real work of art.
One of my favourite places for idli vada sambar was and still remains Ratna Cafe in Triplicane.. Recently when I visited Chennai to attend a wedding with Thara, I sneaked out of a wedding breakfast feast and went there again.. after some 20 years.. they pour sambar into our plate from a big tumbler !
A couple of years back.. Thara and I drove all the way to Murugan Idli near Krishnagiri on the Bangalore Salem road for a plate of idli.. But at the end of it, I was left wondering whether it was worth it.. It was not really worth the hype, drive, time, petrol and money.
I will talk about the plate. The vada came on a steel plate with a piece of banana leaf on it, which was a nice thought. A steel bowl of sambar, with a lone piece of tomato floating in it like it had lost its way. The vada was crisp outside but dry and tight inside, as if the batter had been rushed. The sambar was thin and sweetish, more masala than tamarind or dal. The coconut chutney was icy cold. Not fresh enough.. I suspect it was outsourced to some eatery outside the airport and kept in their freezer, and to add to that no curry leaf, no kick, no reason to ask for a second spoon. And a fork. Yes, a fork, for idli and vada. I looked at the fork for a while. I used my fingers, of course.
A plate of idli vada with good sambar and proper chutneys is one of the cores of Bangalore in particular and Karnataka in general. It is not a snack. It is how this city says good morning. Whoever lands in this city, whether from Delhi or from Düsseldorf, should be handed that first. And if the main airport of Bengaluru cannot do justice to that plate, then for all its glass and bamboo, on that one account I rate the airport a minus.
But in this ornate airport, we were told, there is no idli vada combination.. one plate of idli : 3 nos and one plate of vada again has 3 in numbers.. It is almost to say in a Delhi food outlet, either you got to buy 3 - 4 aloo parathas or none.. ! That really touches the sensitivity of a culture.
The innocent and neutral tasting Idli has a longer history than many other dishes from anywhere in the world.. It is said to be of Indonesian origin. It is reported that WHO even termed it as one of the most perfect and healthy food combinations of carbs and proteins. (though I could not get any citations!) No idea how did our ancestors arrive at that ratio.. and ingredients.. A long time back, the words carbs and proteins were part of the language... The right ratio of rice and urad dal.. grinding it to a certain perfection.. and then let it ferment overnight. Then steam it..
After I moved to Zendo, my younger son brought to my notice an Alan Watts quote on instant coffee, from The Way of Zen. It went like this, "Instant coffee, for example, is a well-deserved punishment for being in a hurry to reach the future.".. Soon, we started using an old brass South Indian coffee filter and started experimenting with different estate coffee. We have found out that coffee grown in upper Chikmagalur has the best taste. What is the relevance is, the idli served at the T2 airport cafe was made of rava. That kind of short circuits the whole process of adding goodness to a piece of idli.
And then, sitting there with the fork in my hand, I heard the old man from Naples.
Thirty years later, here I was, the one in the rage. Quietly, because I am a Zen teacher now and we are trained to rage quietly, but a rage all the same. Nobody eats idli with a fork. It is already made with fermented rice and urad. You airports will kill the idli.
So it turns out I was not far from that old Neapolitan after all. Everyone has a plate they will defend. Mine happens to have a hole in the middle of the vada.
Dogen wrote a whole text about the tenzo. The way he looks at it, how you wash the rice is not different from how you sit. I did not understand that when I was young. I understand it a little better now, thanks to a pizza and a plate at T2. Food is the place where care is visible. Or where its absence is.
I do not think the people at T2 mean any harm. Perhaps nobody there has ever eaten that plate at six in the morning in a small Bengaluru darshini, standing, with a hot steel tumbler of filter coffee. If you have not eaten it that way, you cannot serve it that way. That is how culture gets lost. Not by anybody killing it. Just by people serving what they have never tasted.
I hope the old couple in Ludwigsburg did not leave that day thinking Indians were barbarians. And I hope somebody, someday, stands in the kitchen of T2 and says to the cook, just once, with some love and some rage.. no. Not like this.













